THE PSYCHOLOGY OF BIG WAVE RIDING WITH GREG LONG
The Eddy, Mavs, Billabong XXL awards, Greg Long is the most decorated big wave rider on the planet. But as every big wave charger will tell you, riding huge surf has very little to do with winning competitions. The Inertia catches up with the San Clemente resident and his entourage to find out what exactly goes on behind scoring those rare XXL moments in the year.
