You ready for this?

You might not know it, but in July of 2010 the surfing world became bigger and better. This was the date that the Fiji’s government’s new “Surfing Decree” allowed anyone to surf anywhere in Fiji waters. Prior to the decree some of Fiji, and the worlds, best waves like Tavarua, Restaurants and Namotu were exclusive only to the guests staying in the respective resorts.
This state had been in play since the mid-80s after American Jeff Clarke had discovered Tavarua and set up a resort, leasing the land off the local villagers. He enforced his exclusivity and the only way to surf two of the best waves in the world was to pay around $US500 a night. The other resorts were forced to set up similar exclusive zones to compete, meaning the quality of waves you scored ultimately came down to the amount of money you had.
However the new decree has changed all that and in a world where money and exclusivity seem to hold the upper hand, it was a rare win for surfers who usually just want to surf the best waves on the planet, and not have to sell your grandmother’s left leg to do it. Mind you, a granny’s left limb might be a small price to pay for waves of this quality.
Tavarua, or Cloudbreak, is trademarked as one of the best lefts in the world. Breaking from four to 20 feet, it’s a 500-yard freight train ride made up of long barrels interspersed by huge blue walls designed for snowboard like turns. There are three main sections: The Point (sometimes called “The Top”), The Middle, and the inside, also called “Shish Kabobs”. It’s possible for all three sections to link up, but in a solid swell you will probably spend most of your time at Middles, and desperately trying to avoid getting shish kabobbed.

CJ Hobgood one of the best ever at Cloudbreak, screaming through Middles.

The outer ledge, that starts doubling up when its 15 foot or more, has become one of the “new” big wave paddle spots, with the 2011 and 2012 Volcom Pro swell featuring some of the biggest, bluest and meanest tubes ever paddled into.

Dave Wassell commentated the free surf sessions then went out and caught one wave. This was it.

Although when it becomes too big for your talents, or there is a bit more west in the swell, there’s always Restaurants, a spiraling left that breaks close to the island. Kelly Slater describes it as “the most perfectly formed waved in the world,” something he has a little experience in. It’s usually half the size of Tavarua, but is so hollow and so perfect it defies description. That these two waves exist so close to each other is one of the geographical miracles of the surfing word.
Close by the island of Namotu offers a range of great waves, although maybe not quite in the incredible quality range of Tavarua. Namotu Left is a fun, slower carving wave that holds big swells, while Swimming Pools is an all-around fun, cruising right hander that is perfect for longboarding. Finally Wilkes is a right hander opposite Namotu Island that while somewhat shifty, throws up rippable walls and good barrel sections.
The southern chain of atolls has also only recently been explored but they offer a huge realm of incredible potential, from both the winter and summer swells.
Prior to July 2010 you had to choose between the waves of Tavarua and Namotu. These days an hour speedboat ride has you surfing whatever wave blows your hair back. Simply choose your budget, pack your boardshorts, suncream, fishing rods and plenty of boards. Then all there is to do is soak up the famous Fijian people’s generosity of spirit and enjoy the surf trip of your life.

When to go: April – October, dry season offers more consistency of swell and offshore SE trade winds.
Airport: Fly into Nadi International Airport (NAN) and let accommodation will deal with transfers.
Boards: Everything from 4’11”s to 11’4”s depending on your commitment levels.
Accommodation: Between Tavarua Resort www.tavarua.com) and Namotu Island Resort (www.namotuislandfiji.com) you’ll find what you need.
Other waves: The Coral Coast offers waves like Hideaway, Sigatoka, Serua, Vunanui, Natadola and Frigates while the Lau Atolls offer untapped potential.
After Dark: The resorts offer thunderous cocktails and shimmering pools, while the healthy backpacker scene keeps Fiji fresh and fruity.

Sick of getting skunked? Tired of being that guy who makes everywhere go flat/onshore just by rocking up? Today’s swell forecasts mean you need suffer no longer. See a swell, count your funds, chase it. Sounds simple, right? Here are a few further pointers.

STALK THE WINDOW
Leading up to it, watch what’s happening. You don’t need to be a meteo master but establishing patterns is a good idea. Have a few potentials in mind based on your budget (e.g for Europe: Portugal/ France/Ireland) and check their forecasts from around ten days or even two weeks out.

NORTH….
Hmmm. Going north is trickier. Going somewhere like northern Scotland that requires a N swell borne from around 60 deg N of the equator involves more uncertainty in terms of the forecast than your standard mid Atlantic low in the 40’s or 50’s. Be aware of this. You might see forecast lows a few days out that completely disappear from one day to the next. In an ideal world, for that trip, wait until the nowcast/actual report and then burn up there.

LAST MINUTE
The idea of going last minute is to get surefire bang for your bucks, but there is a point of diminishing returns where everything starts getting more expensive. Last minute deals can be cheap but can also be pricey… connecting flights in particular can undo you.

CREW
Your swell chase crew can be as important as the swell itself. Try to assemble a crew that want to surf the same spot as you. Faffing around taking one guy to Beginner’s Backbeach, another to Perfect Point then back to Deadman’s Reef means wasting time. And swell is very much on the clock.

QUIVER
Your swell chasing quiver should be refined with forecast in mind, but not live or die by it. Forecasts change, swells get more blown out than they should be, and sheltered spots come in to play that might not be so easy to surf on your 9’6” Rawson.

CLEAN WAVES. Aquarium SS. 05-06.06
A talk around the environment.

TEATRO PRINCIPAL. 07-09.06
The best productions from the world and from right here, very juicy premieres..

SURFILMFESTIBAILA. Gazteszena. 07.06
Rockers VS Surfers VS Modernos.

MUCHACHADA NUI MONOLOGUES. University. 24.05
From the creators of La hora chanante, Muchachada Nui and Museo Coconut, Raul Cimas and Julián López: “Breve disertación sobre lo clásico y lo moderno”.
You can buy your ticket here: www.kutxasarrerak.net

SURF, HORROR AND SCIENCE FICTION. Guardetxe, 25.05 19.30h
A new fun gig to kick off Surfilmfestibal11 in one of the festival’s favourite venues, Guardetxe / Casa del Guarda. Besides the horror and surf films, we are pleased to announce a last minute addition: the European premiere of SECRET SOUND UNDERGROUND, the new film by Jack Coleman!

SURFILM PRO: SURF FILM AND PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOPS
At this new stage of Surfilmfestibal, we focus on workshops by professionals within the surfing audiovisual scene to transmit their experience and form future artists.

Extended Vision. 06-18.06
Surf short-film workshop: the process from the development of the idea, to the filming and edition. An intensive course given by Centa, and a master class with Juan Aizpitarte. More info and registration.

Surf Foto. 21.06
Digital and analog photography workshop applied to surfing with Pacotwo and Roke, two of the most active photographers in our coast. Free registration, 4 intense hours, no previous experience required Program and registration.

FEMALE ART BORN IN THE OCEAN

REINHARDT, SUSAETA, DECOSTER. Montes+Mugica Narrica 1. Opening 31.05 19.30h (until 28.06)
3 female artists and second generation surfers: Valentine Reinhardt, the daughter of Christophe Reinhardt, a respected surfer from Gethary; Inés Susaeta, the daughter of Jon Susaeta, one of the first locals to surf legit Mundaka barrels; and Pandora Decoster, from the Decoster dinasty, Gerard was the driving force behind MIACS and the classic surf shop Hangar in Biarritz.

Their art drinks from the sea, iodine, rocks. Valentine’s surreal landscapes, where the limit between sea, sky and earth is faded; Ines’ mind-blowing jewellery, born from rocks, the reef and the marine fauna from spots around the world; Pandora’s films, delicate, dreamlike, cosmic.
An amazing proposal in a magic venue, Montes+Mugica Narrica Uno shop, which holds a vast artistic background, supported by the family’s second generation, who claims through a contemporary artist program.

DANIELA GARRETON. Galería NoColor. Opening 29.05 19.30h (until 28.06)
Now she lives in Donosti, but Daniela started drawing in Chile, a country with 4.000 km of coastline, therefore, the ocean soon became her passion. Her work spreads the respect and love she feels for the ocean through different techniques and a defined, intense line.

INTERSEXXYON 2. Deadline extended til 29.05!
A contest open to all local rippers. Send us your mega compressed 1 MINUTE short-film before May 29. Best turns, drops, barrels, 60 second long pure adrenaline explosion!
Más info.

SANTA CLARA ISLAND: SUP AND COMMUNITY PICNIC.01.06
Have you seen the Iberian wall lizard who lives in the island? Come and join our caravan and see it! Grab your SUP (or rent one at en C4SupCenter), a chorizo sandwich, some drinks and paddle to the island. Community picnic –self catered- including Treasure Hunt, courtesy of Patagonia. You can also come on a boat. Info and Registration.

KUTXA GAUA & SARDINA FREXKUE. Sagüés Esplanade 28, 29 and 30. 06
Two days of outdoor activities in Sagúes, the city’s surfing epicentre, just like the typical neighbourhood parties. Live music at sunset with Betty the Shark (Lee an Curren’s band) and dj Frank good films and grilled sardines for everyone!

We want to claim the artist and new creator scene around surfing, that’s why we have organized 2 days of culture market, thanks to Montes+Mugica’s partnership, with 20 market stands –exhibition and sale. We provide the space, and you set up the stall! Info and conditions

ONDARTXO. Pasaia 30.07
Ondartxo is pure magic. Anyone entering this space will feel something special at the sight of the amazing project held in this ancient shipyard from the 50’s. A living space dedicated in body and soul –thanks to its members. to recover the fantastic legacy of shipbuilding in the Basque Country.

An Outstanding Program: European premiere of a restored version of Pacific Vibrations, the classic film by John Severson, which showcases the magic 70s, the link between psychedelic music and surfing. Then, Mikal Cronin, in concert, a surfer from Laguna Beach, to finish with Ayo Silver djs.

As surfers, we value the technology applied in shipbuilding, as we value the art of sculpting surf boards. The perfect association of tradition and modernity, of Albaola and Surfilmfestibal to open to our public the door to this spot, definitely a benchmark in the marine environment.

Ticket sales: www.kutxasarrerak.net

“ADVENTURE No 11” STARRING KEPA ACERO
Travelling is rediscovering, no matter where you go, and that’s exactly what Kepa Acero and Surfilmestibal do on their latest craze called “Adventure No 11”. A mockumentary that vindicates the classic venues, which will host this year’s festibal’s gigs. This will be our look for this edition: red beanies!

For more info on schedule updates, visit surfilmfestibal.com.

ASP International has announced the addition of the EDP Cascais Girls Pro to the 2013 ASP Women’s World Championship Tour schedule, operating as the eighth and final event of the season from October 3 – 7 in Portugal. Right before the men’s Rip Curl Pro Peniche leg.

“We’re excited to confirm the addition of Portugal to this year’s women’s WCT schedule,” Jessi Miley-Dyer, ASP Women’s World Tour Manager, said. “The ASP Top 17 were informed about the possibility of this addition at the start of the season and have been well prepared for it. Portugal is a great country and Cascais have been big supporters of women’s surfing as a qualifying event in the past. We’re happy to bring the world’s best female surfers there this season.”

The 2013 ASP Women’s World Title race has been hotly-contested thus far this season with youngsters Tyler Wright and Carissa Moore each collecting two wins of the opening five events with Sally Fitzgibbons and Courtney Conlogue following closely behind.

“We were told about the possibility of a Portugal event at the start of the year and it’s great to have it confirmed as part of the tour,” Tyler Wright, current ASP Women’s WCT No. 1, said.

How this effects the current title race we’re not exactly sure but you can bet all your Portuguese she-shredders are stoking at the idea of having the world’s best on show in their backyard come October.

2013 ASP WOMEN’S WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP TOUR SCHEDULE
Roxy Pro Gold Coast: Tyler Wright (AUS)
Drug Aware Margaret River Pro: Carissa Moore (HAW)
Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach: Carissa Moore (HAW)
TSB Bank NZ Surf Festival: Courtney Conlogue (USA)
Colgate Plax Girls Rio Pro: Tyler Wright
Roxy Pro Biarritz: TBD
US Open of Surfing: TBD
EDP Cascais Girls Pro: TBD

The 12th edition of the Nixon Surf Challenge headed all the way north to Iceland last week for an incredible adventure just below the Arctic Circle.

After a week of exploring the volcanic island and surfing little-known breaks peppered along Iceland’s dramatic coastline, France’s Vincent Duvignac was voted Best Overall by his fellow surfers. The 25-year-old stood out from the crowd thanks to his tireless motivation to score waves despite the freezing temperatures, as well as his consistently impressive performances in the glacial water.

Reflecting on his victory in Iceland from the altogether warmer climate of Brazil where he’s currently competing in an ASP Prime event, Duvignac said: “I was so pumped to walk away from Iceland as the Best Overall surfer. There’s nothing quite like the Nixon Surf Challenge, and the opportunity to explore new and deserted spots is always pretty special, particularly when the landscape you travel through is as incredible as it is in Iceland. Thanks to all the surfers and everyone behind the scenes – it’s an experience I’ll always remember, and I hope to be back next year.”

Australia’s Chippa Wilson walked away with the Best Trick award, doing just about enough in the eyes of his fellow surfers to edge out William Aliotti. Armed with his huge arsenal of aerial tricks and an uncanny ability to eek the most out of the conditions, Chippa took to Iceland like a duck to water. “This is about as different as it gets for me, but that’s the beauty of it. There aren’t many places in the world that bring a handful of surfers and snowboarders together on the beach, but with snow-covered mountains running all the way down the ocean, that’s exactly what happened in Iceland. The whole experience was pretty magical, and it’s weeks like this that help to remind us all why we fell in love with surfing in the first place.”

Chippa Wilson dealing with the freezing Icelandic drink by staying out of it. Photo: Elli Magnusson

The third and final award was the ‘I Rocked Iceland’ prize. And that went to the Canary Islands’ Jose Maria Cabrera. Bursting with positive energy throughout the trip, Cabrera was a veritable force of nature that embraced the daily challenge of paddling out in barely-above freezing water temperatures while still finding the energy to party with the best of them on fun-fueled nightlife adventures in Reykjavik with the likes of long-time Nixon team rider Eric Rebiere.

Spain’s Gony Zubizarreta, himself no stranger to the Nixon Surf Challenge, was stoked to be part of the event again, saying: “Iceland was a first for me, and I just knew it was going to be amazing. I’ve never surfed waves as cold as in Iceland – just 2 degrees! It was super-tough to surf well in those conditions, but the beauty of the landscape, and the hot springs, made it that bit easier to bear. It was a real surf trip – no pressure, just pure joy and a sick new adventure! Thanks to Nixon for making it happen.”

Nobody goes to Iceland and not go to a hot spring.

As the surfers headed for the airport at the end of a truly memorable week, Franck Corbery, Marketing Manager at Nixon Europe, summed it all up: “The Nixon Surf Challenge picked up where previous editions left off, and then stepped it up a notch. A great group of surfers, empty surf spots, awe-inspiring natural beauty and sick surf sessions no matter what time of day it was thanks to 24-hour daylight – a winning formula if ever there was one.”

Full video recap of the event to follow next week.

1. MIKEL LABOA
‘IZARREN HAUTSA’
For me this is the best Basque song ever composed, with a universal beauty and depth.I’d take it to the desert island because it reminds me who I am, it would help me hold on to my roots.

2. PATRICK WATSON
‘THEE GREAT SCAPE’
A profound and beautiful song, perfect for lonely nights on a desert island watching the stars by yourself.

3. BOB MARLEY
‘TALKING BLUES’
Of course you’d need a break from all that nostalgia, so this one is perfect for imparting some upbeat vibes to keep your spirits up. I’m not sure if I’d find some herb on that desert island, but just in case, you’d want this one close to hand.

4. GINZU
’21ST CENTURY CROONERS’
Full instrumental action. Pure and intense… In case you’re really hungry and you need the motivation to go hunt and chase a lion.

5. THE FELICE BROTHER
‘T FOR TEXAS’
Great song, lots of fun. For sure I’d be having a solo dance with this one, reminding myself that there is a little pirate inside there. Although if I’m going to be dancing, I’d miss not having beer…

6. RAMONES
ANY
Essential. If Joey Ramone is somewhere up there in heaven or hell, he would love to see me marooned going, “Hey ho, Let’s go!” all by myself in the nude.

7. THE WATER BOYS
‘FISHERMEN BLUES’
Can’t be a more appropriate tune than this for the situation. I love this one, nostalgic, deep but optimistic, I could listen to this on repeat for hours.

8. BON IVER
‘FLUME’
It feels like Bon Iver must’ve been alone on a desert island when he composed this one. The vibe would fit the mood perfectly. Good music kind of reflects the way we feel back at us, and this one does it perfectly.

A BOOK
For the book I’d take any of Henry David Thoreau’s books. He wrote a lot about life outside of society, and being by yourself in an intimate relationship with nature. Totally immersed on my solo experience, this book would be full of good advice and resonant philosophy.

A LUXURY
For the luxury item let’s say my Pukas 6’3”. That’s the one I really like. You never know, there could be a perfect 6 foot barrel on the island, and then I could have sex every day with my 6’3”.

The clean two-to-four foot conditions lent themselves perfectly to a wide variety of airs and turns for the final day of competition. And as you would have expected, the heavy Brazilian contingent that had made it through to the quarters (Adriano, Medina and Toledo) all looked very dangerous.

However in the end it was South Africa’s powerhouse Jordy Smith who proved unbeatable, topping national fave Adriano de Souza by a score of 17.80 to 16.34. The Billabong Rio Pro victory marks his third career ASP WCT event win but only his first away from South African soil.

“This win feels unbelievable,” Smith said. “It’s another dream come true. I knew I could win a World Tour event, but I had to prove to myself that I could do it away from South Africa. Thanks to crowd and Adriano (de Souza). He’s been ripping the whole event. Thanks to all of my friends and family for all of the amazing support.”

Jordy now sits at No. 2 on the CT rankings, with Adriano moving up into pole position after his win at Bells. Next stop Fiji! (from June 2nd – 14th)

BILLABONG RIO PRO FINAL RESULTS: 1 – Jordy Smith (ZAF) 17.80 2 – Adriano de Souza (BRA) 16.34

UPCOMING BILLABONG RIO PRO SEMIFINALS RESULTS:
SF 1: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 17.64 def. Gabriel Medina (BRA) 17.50
SF 2: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 14.83 def. Mick Fanning (AUS) 8.26

UPCOMING BILLABONG RIO PRO QUARTERFINALS RESULTS:
QF 1: Adriano de Souza (BRA) 15.33 def. Kelly Slater (USA) 12.30
QF 2: Gabriel Medina (BRA) 16.43 def. Adrian Buchan (AUS) 14.93
QF 3: Mick Fanning (AUS) 12.50 def. Sebastian Zietz (HAW) 12.37
QF 4: Jordy Smith (ZAF) 17.76 def. Filipe Toledo (BRA) 14.07

ASP WCT TOP 5 SURFERS (Following Billabong Rio Pro);
1. Adriano de Souza (BRA) 18,500 pts
2. Jordy Smith (ZAF) 18,250 pts
3. Mick Fanning (AUS) 18,200 pts
4. Kelly Slater (USA) 16,950 pts
5. Taj Burrow (AUS) 15,700 pts

The closest to death was Sancho, and his tow partner and life saver Alain Riou attributed his near miss to the crowd. “We had been waiting a long time for that wave and as we headed in another ski got on our way, I had to slow down and go around it and we ended up too deep despite going full throttle.”

Shane Dorian said “It was the best swell ever, just wish it was without the jetski anger.” Mark Mathews told SE that, “Manoa, Raimana, Poto get all the bombs whether they’re driving or surfing and everyone else scrambles for everything else. They way it should be. But it was super dangerous because you end up in positions you really don’t want to be in.”

But it was Laird Hamilton who has been the most vocal, telling  the Hollywood gossip site TMZ  (obviously) that, “They are so much more concerned with catching the next wave than with other surfers. The chaos of the jet skis’ movement has a circus-like aspect. Some behaviors were borderline clownish.”

Almost 13 years ago and the only circus in town was Laird’s big top. Photo Mckenna

And even though Laird pretty much invented the sport in the first, and is responsible for big-wave surfing’s mainstream interest he went on to say, “They’re all wearing a bunch of cameras, taking off on waves they have NO chance of making. They drop in just so they can have a photo of themselves … ‘Wow, look at me!’”

Mark doesn’t count this piddly thing is as a bomb.

Describe the three days?
It was the craziest swell event I’ve ever seen. Four days straight of 10ft+ barrels and even the day after was 4-6 foot and pumping today.
How did it compare to some of the other sessions you have had out there?
I have only been here once before and it was only 6-8 ft so surfing a monster swell here has been on the top of my bucket list for years. It is definitely the most amazing wave on the planet!
Did you get any bombs? And who are you towing with?
Na not really any bombs. We didn’t have a ski. Luckily our good friend  Everaldo “Pato” Teixeira shared his ski with us. Plus Kamalei Alexander whipped us into some fun ones, but it’s hard to get many waves when there are five people to one ski. And there were 14 other skis out there all fighting for the bombs. I’ll tell you what though, you learn quick who your real friends are when you’re in the channel trying to get a tow.

You know who your friends are. Kamalai checks out his days work with Mathews that evening.

Who was out there? Who were the standouts?
Pretty much every big wave surfer you can name. From Dorian to Laird. Raimana, Manoa, Healey, Laurie, Hippo, Richie, Dingo etc etc etc.  It’s hard to say who stood out, everyone was going so nuts! I think Hippo was the stand out paddling and I loved watching Laurie Towner when he was getting whipped in. He gets deeper than everyone and just looks so casual.
It seemed like the whole big-wave world moved there. What was the vibe like?
It was a little crazy in the water the first few days because everyone was jostling for waves. But on land everyone is friends. There has been about 10 of us staying in a house together so it’s been real fun. Dinners have been fun, with 20 or so packed into the one little restaurant all talking about the waves that day.
From the footage the crowd seems insane? How was it regulated? Or did it work itself out? Or was it super dangerous?
Manoa, Raimana, Poto get all the bombs whether they’re driving or surfing and everyone else scrambles for everything else. They way it should be. But it was super dangerous because you end up in positions you really don’t want to be in.
Highlights, low lights, best moment so far etc, number of Hinanos drunk etc
Koa Rothman’s big bomb was insane! So was one of Raimana’s it was about 30 foot and Reef had to bail out under it. He said the shock wave blew him and his board straight out the back. And then so many other guys got nuts ones to it’s just one big blur. There were some heavy moments. Sancho had a really heavy wipeout and was knocked unconscious but was luckily popped up in the channel and was rescued then taken to hospital to get stitched up. Reef busted 2 ribs and popped his ear drum paddling. Hippo had to go get his foot stitched up. Makua had to get his mouth stiched. The guy we are staying with Ryan Gallina had to get his head stapled up. I came up coughing blood after one wipe out. Richie Vass got caught by a 15 footer and blown into the lagoon. His board disintegrated and was never to be seen again. Of course it didn’t hurt him. He’s just relaxing between fights!
Did you see the comp in Rio today and think, maybe the top 32 ain’t the place to be?
Nah, I just think it was rough for them. I’m sure there where so many of them that wanted to be here.

Worth the three hour wait? Most definitely.